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  • To the olive groves
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    To the olive groves

    Once you left Granada take road N 323 to Jaen. After about 12 Km, you will reach the small Cubillas Lake. It is usually not mentioned on the maps unless they are very detailed. It is worth your while to stop. Enjoy the mirror like waters and the Mountain View. On a good day, you can even see the snow on the Sierra Nevada.

    The way to Jean takes you through an uninhabited area. Olive groves everywhere, as far as you can see. An unusual panorama.

    From Jean take road N 321 toward Alcala La Real and enjoy this astonishing landscape.

    Granada

    Granada was first settled by native tribes in the prehistoric period, and was known as Ilbyr. When the Romans colonized southern Spain, they built their own city here and called it Illibris. The Arabs, invading the peninsula in the 8th century and gave it its current name of Granada.

    It was the last Muslim city to fall to the Christians in 1492, during the reign of Queen Isabel of Castile and her husband Ferdinand of Aragon.
    One of the most brilliant architectural wonders is the Alhambra of palaces and gardens built under the Nazari Dynasty in the 14th C.
    This mighty compound of buildings - including the summer palace called Generalife, with its fountains and gardens - stands at the foot of Spain's highest mountain range, the Sierra Nevada.

    At the centre of the Alhambra stands the massive Palace of Charles V, an outstanding example of Spanish Renaissance architecture. Close by you can find the Cathedral, including the Royal Chapel where Isabel and Ferdinand lie buried, Close by stands La Capilla Real - The Royal Chapel, the mausoleum of the Catholic Kings Isabel and Ferdinand, who chose to be buried in Granada because they saw its conquest as the crowning achievement of their reign (they had no way of knowing that this would soon prove to be their sponsorship of Columbus' journey). Isabel of Castille was at heart a woman of the Middle Ages, as illustrated by her precious collection of Flemish masters on view in the Sacristy. She wanted a small, humble mausoleum for her and all her descendants, befitting the follower of Saint Francis that she was. But she died before the chapel could be built, and spent some twenty years in a provisional tomb in the Franciscan convent that was built in the Alhambra in the shell of the palace mosque (and is now an elegant hotel, the Parador San Francisco, well worth visiting even if you can't afford to stay there). The architects, out of deference for her importance rather than her dying wishes, made the chapel larger and more luxurious than planned, with the result that it is neither humble nor truly grand; in any case, her successor and grandson Carlos V - the master of the new Empire which she had founded - judged it too unassuming for the masters of a reign on which the sun never set, and the Royal Mausoleum, for all of Spain's subsequent monarchs, was eventually moved to the blockbuster Escorial Monastery outside Madrid, built by his son, Felipe II.

    The hill facing the Alhambra is the old Moorish casbah or "medina", called the Albaicin, a fascinating labyrinth of narrow streets and whitewashed houses with secluded inner gardens, known as "cármenes". The Plaza de San Nicolas, at the highest point of the Albaicin, is famous for its magnificent view of the Moorish palace.
    The Sacromonte hill, which overlooks the city from the North, is famous for its cave dwellings, once the home of Granada's large gypsy community.

    The name Granada is ancient and mysterious. It may mean "great castle", for the Roman fortress, which once stood on the Albaicin Hill. When the Moorish came here, the town was largely inhabited by Jews, for which they called it Garnat-al-Yahud - Granada of the Jews. The Jews are said to have been one of the first peoples to settle in Spain, even before the Romans.

    History of the Alhambra

    The name Alhambra comes from an Arabic root which means "red or crimson castle", perhaps due to the hue of the towers and walls that surround the entire hill of La Sabica which by starlight is silver but by sunlight is transformed into gold. However, there is another more poetic version, evoked by the Moslem analysts who speak of the construction of the Alhambra fortress "by the light of torches", the reflections of which gave the walls their particular coloration. Created originally for military purposes, the Alhambra was an alcazaba (fortress), an alcázar (palace) and a small medina (city), all in one. This triple character helps to explain many distinctive features of the monument.

    There is no reference to the Alhambra as being a residence of kings until the 13th century, even though the fortress had existed since the 9th century. The Nasrites were probably the emirs who built the Alhambra, starting in 1238.

    The Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Catholic Monarchs (Ferdinand and Isabel) conquered the city of Granada. Later, various structures were built for prominent civilians also military garrisons, a church and a Franciscan monastery.

    Emperor Charles V, who spent several months in Granada, began the construction of the palace, which bears his name and altered the interior buildings. These measures were to cause interminable controversy often motivated by political agendas. The remaining Austrian kings did not forget the monument and have left their own more discreet impressions on it.

    During the 18th century and part of the 19th, the Alhambra fell into neglect and was to see its salons converted into dung heaps and taverns, occupied by thieves and beggars. As the crowning blow, Napoleon's troops, masters of Granada from 1808 until 1812, were to convert the palaces into barracks. Therefore, the incredible neglect continued, until 1870 when the Alhambra was declared a national monument. Travellers and romantic artists of all countries had railed against those who scorned the most beautiful of their monuments. Since that date and up to now, the Alhambra, protected, restored, cared for and even improved, has been preserved for the pleasure and admiration of all.

    Visiting the Alhambra

    Upon entry to the Alhambra you will have been assigned a time slot for the Palace Nazaries. If you fail to enter during this half hour time slot, you will be denied entry to this stunning complex. It therefore makes sense to enter the Alhambra well before you assigned time. You can then visit other sections of the Alhambra beforehand. Logically it is best to visit first the Alcazaba then the Palace of Carlos V (with museums) before the Palace Nazaries. Then you can walk along the North wall towards the Generalife (gardens). To visit everything at a leisurely pace will require at least 3 hours.

    Tickets for the Alhambra

    The number of admissions per day is limited to protect the monument. Therefore, if you have not booked in advance it is imperative to turn up early in the day, especially during high season, to guarantee entry. Queues will start well before the 8.30 opening time.

    There are two ways to book in advance - in a BBV bank, or online or by phone.
    BBV (Banco Bilbao Vizcaya)
    All branches of this large bank provide a reservation system. You can sometimes choose your time slot for the Palacio Nazaries (see above). This reservation system must be used at least one day in advance. Tel 902 22 44 60

    Online
    The above service is available online at http://w3.grupobbva.com/ALHAMBRA/alhambra/home.html
    Visit the Alhambra's website for more details www.alhambra-patronato.es

    Telephone
    Tickets can be reserved by phoning 902 22 44 60

    If you have reserved a ticket, you will have to collect your ticket from the Western entrance. This is a long uphill walk from the city centre so leave plenty of time to make sure you do not miss your time slot for the Palace Nazaries. Alternatively, jump on the No. 32 bus, which runs regularly from the centre and will drop you right in front of the ticket office.

    Jaen

    The city of Jaen, in northern Andalusia, is rich in history, with great monuments such as the Cathedral, built between the 16th and 18th centuries, and the adjoining parish church or "El Sagrario". The city's Moorish castle, converted into a Parador, sits majestically on top of Mount Santa Catalina, and atop a nearby hill stands a monumental cross-engraved with a moving poem by Almendros Aguilar. It is worth climbing to the top just to see the spectacular view of the city and the rolling olive groves of Jaen!

    Jaen has several fascinating churches, such as La Santa Capilla de San Andres, the Convent of Santo Domingo, the Church of La Magdalena with its charming courtyard, the Church of San Ildefonso, the Convent of Las Bernardas and the Churches of San Bartolomé and San Juan. The Museum of Jaen Province (Museo Provincial) possesses one of Spain's leading collections of Iberian art, from the pre-Roman period.

    Each year huge bonfires celebrating the day of San Antonio Abad, the patron saint and protector of animals light up the plazas of Jaen. The town's neighbourhoods vie with one another to build the biggest, brightest and most spectacular bonfire, while the people perform the traditional dance called "los melenchones". Seasonal delicacies are eaten such as pumpkin, sweet potatoes and popcorn.

    Alcalá la Real

    This delightful small town has a population of approximately 21,000 and is located on the N432 between Cordoba (85km) and Granada (47km) although, technically, it falls within the province of Jaen.

    The town has an impressive fortress and was a strategic stronghold during medieval times, and subsequently occupied by the Moors in 713. Thereafter, Alcalá was the scene of frequent battles between the Moors and the Christians. This tumultuous period lasted until 1341 when Alfonso XI gained control of the town. The crown established an abbey here, which was deemed the headquarters from where to launch a major offensive on Granada.

    Main Sights

    La Mota Castle

    This magnificent castle dates back to 727 when the town was under Muslim rule. The castle was badly damaged in the 19th century when battles were fought with France and it was thereafter abandoned. The three rows of fortifications are still in evidence, however, and there is a small museum open to the public.

    Abbey Church

    Located within the original city walls is another of the town's important buildings - the Abbey Church that was built on the site of the original Alcalá Abbey. It is an extremely imposing building with a 42-meter tower looming above the old part of the city, and said to date back to between 1530 and 1627. The church is a combination of various architectural styles, including Gothic and Renaissance, and the vaults are particularly impressive, being entirely constructed from hued stone.

    St Juan Church

    This church dates back to the late sixteenth century and is located on the hill leading up to the castle. It is one of Alcalá's most popular churches and houses the 'Cristo de la Salud', which is used during the annual Holy Week processions.

    Town Hall

    The town hall is housed in an impressive early eighteenth century building, fronted Alcalá is the birthplace of Andalusian Baroque architecture. Martones Montañes (1568-1649), the famous architect and principal exponent of the Seville architectural school was born here, as was Pablo de Rojas (1560-1607) who represented the school of Granada.

    The traditional handicrafts of Alcalá, include embroidery, pottery and leather.

    Local Festivals

    • February 2: La Candeleria. A mini 'fallas' (Valencia) when bonfires are lit throughout the town.
    • Holy Week: An important religious holiday with daily processions taking place through the main streets of the town.
    • May 15: San Isidro. Locals enjoy a picnic in the surrounding countryside.
    • June 24: San Juan. Bonfires and fireworks
    • August 15: Virgin de la Mercedes. A dazzling procession with more than 12,000 lit candles.
    • September 21-25: Annual fair of San Mateo.

     
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