The whitewashed villages of Andalusia are impressive historical monuments in themselves, and their people still live according to age-old traditions, inherited from their Iberian, Roman and Moorish ancestors.

Many of the villages near the coast have become fashionable resorts, while still conserving their ancient charm, whereas others, lost in the highlands of Andalusia, remain rough and ready olive-farming towns, with a special appeal for the adventurous travellers.

Most Andalusian towns began as fortresses, which stood along the ever-fluctuating frontier between the Christian and Moorish realms, as is apparent in the names of such towns as "Jerez de la Frontera", "Arcos de la Frontera", "Morón de la Frontera"... Over the centuries, many have developed into thriving agricultural centres producing olive oil, fruit and vegetables and goat's milk.

Cadiz

Cadiz stands on a peninsula jutting out into a bay, and is surrounded by water. Named Gadir by the Phoenicians, who founded their trading post in 1100 BC, it was later controlled by the Carthaginians, until it became a thriving Roman port. It sank into oblivion under the Visigoths and Moors, but attained great splendour in the early 16th century as a launching point for the journey to the newly discovered lands of America. Cadiz was later raided by Sir Francis Drake, in the struggle to gain control of trade with the New World, and managed to withstand a siege by Napoleon's army. In the early 19th century, Cadiz became the bastion of Spain's anti-monarchist, liberal movement, because of which the country's first Constitution was declared here in 1812.

Some of the city's 18th century walls still stand, such as the Landward Gate. The old, central quarter of Cadiz is famous for its picturesque charm, and many of the buildings reflect the city's overseas links. Worth a visit are the city's Cathedral and churches of Santa Cruz and San Felipe Neri, which is famous throughout Spain as the place where, in defiance of Napoleon's siege, the provisional government was set up with its own liberal Constitution. Other points of interest are La Santa Cueva, home to several paintings by Goya, and stately mansions such as the Casa del Almirante and Casa de las Cadenas.

The old city looks quite Moorish in appearance and is intriguing with narrow cobbled streets opening onto small squares. The golden cupola of the cathedral looms high above long white houses and the whole place has a slightly dilapidated air. It just takes an hour to walk around the headlands where you can visit the entire old town and pass through some lovely parks with sweeping views of the bay.

Unlike most other ports of its size, it seems immediately relaxed and easy going, not at all threatening, even at night. Perhaps this is due to its reassuring shape and size, the presence of the sea making it impossible to get lost for more than a few blocks. It also owes much to the town's tradition of liberalism and tolerance which was maintained all through the years of Franco's dictatorship, despite this being one of the first cities to fall to his forces and was the port through which the Republican armies launched their invasion.

Chiclana & Sancti Petri

Adjacent to the salt marshes, Chiclana is not on the coast itself. Sancti Petri has become the town¹s summer resort extension.

The Sancti Petri Golf Course, reputed to have been designed by Seve Ballesteros, has stunning views of the sea. Opposite the town is the small island of Sancti Petri with a lighthouse and a magnificent 18th Century castle, which was built by the Phoenicians on the ruins of the temple of Zeus.

A small ferry can be taken to visit the island in the summer. On the island is the lighthouse and 18th century castle that was constructed on the ruins of the temple of Zeus built by the Phoenicians.

Another typical Andalusian town with charming narrow cobbled streets and balconies festooned with flowers.

Monuments in the town include:

• Ermita de Santa Ana (18th C with its great cupula)
• The Capilla del Santo Cristo (16th C)
• Church of San Juan Bautista (18th C)
• Church of Jesus Nazareno (17th C)

La Barrosa is 8 km long

Vejer de la Frontera

If you are exploring the CN340 coast road, you would be wise to make time for a wander round Vejer. This classic white hilltop town is well worth a visit. 10 km inland, perched high above the steep gorge of the River Barbate, Vejer is virtually unknown by foreign tourists.

This stunning castellated town is a magical place to explore, its quiet cobbled streets meandering through a charming jumble of secret corners, hidden patios and delightful houses. Hidden behind ancient walls, it has a magnificent church. Great care has been taken to preserve this beautiful town. One is relieved to find barely a hint of plastic or a trace of the 20th Century. Even the litterbins appear to have been carefully designed to please the eye! The town square, shaded by vast palm trees, has a wonderful old fountain with traditional ceramic Andalusian frogs that spout water high into the air, thus forming a fountain.

The recently restored 17th Century Franciscan Convent OHospederia de Convento San Francisco, now a hotel restaurant, is also worth a visit. The town has been officially declared a Historical Monument of National importance.

Specific places of interest include:

• Arab Castle - is hidden in the old quarter. A classic 11th century arch leads into a courtyard. During the summer school holidays, the local scouts and guides will show you around the ramparts.
• Church of El Divino Salvador - like many was built on the site of an old Mosque. The front of the main aisle is Visigothic while the reminder is Mudejar.
• Santuario de Nuestra Senora de la Oliva - is a local chapel, which houses a 16th century carved image of the Virgin Mary.
• Plaza de España - is a meeting place with numerous cafes and bars around the outside. In the centre there is an ornate ceramic fountain featuring four frogs. The town hall is located in the square and a notable feature is the facade of the fabled Casa de la Inquisición.

Medina Sidonia is an unspoilt, little known ancient hilltop town despite its important history. The town was one of Spain's most important ducal seats in the 15th century; producing an admiral who led the Armada against England. The title of Duque de Medina Sidonia was bestowed upon the family of Guzmán El Bueno for his valiant role in taking the town, a line which continues and is currently led by the controversial socialist, Duchess of Medina Sidonia, The village has a slightly shabby grandeur with medieval walls and tidy narrow cobbled streets flanked by rows of reja-fronted houses.

Sights to See

• Plaza de España - Elegant rectangular plaza with plenty of public seating, surrounded by handsome three storey buildings.
• The Town Hall - A 17th century building reflecting Baroque and Neo-classical architecture with a magnificent Renaissance façade.
• Santa Maria la Coronado Church - Built on the foundations of the original castle and later a mosque, this church is a fine example of Andalusian Gothic architecture. Inside there is an enormous 15m high and exquisite retablo, which typically depicts scenes from the life of Christ. There is also a fine sculpted image of Cristo del Perdón attributed to Luisa Roldán, and several sixteenth century benches that were apparently used by the Inquisition. During Roman times, Medina was known as Asido Caesarino.
• Some remarkable Roman sewers still exist from this era (entry on Calle Espíritu Santo 3) that date from the first century AD. The sewers stand over two metres in height and are a tribute to Roman engineering skills.
• Medina Sidonia also has three Moorish gates including the magnificent Arco de la Pastora, close to the Jerez road.

For the best choice of restaurants and bars, head for the Plaza de España where Restaurant Cádiz and Mesón Machin offer good local cuisine and tapas. For something a little fancier, head to El Duque, Paseo Armada Española, this specialises in excellent meat dishes with spectacular views from the terrace.

Alcala de los Gazules

An ancient hilltop town with Moorish ruins located between Granada & Cordoba on the N432 road.

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is situated on cliffs high above a meander in the River Guadalete. A typical defensive hill village with cobbled streets leading up to a castle, which was built in the fifteenth century on Moorish foundations.

The view from the castle and village is staggering. There is a Parador here, which a good place to take a quiet drink and watch the view in a relaxed atmosphere.

Things to look out for in Arcos

• Plaza del Cabildo for the views.
• The Castle
• Santa Maria Church, Gothic facade and ornately carved choir stalls.
• San Pedro Chapel, set right on the edge of the sheer cliffs, fine baptismal chapel.
• Palacio de Mayorazgo with ornate renaisance facade.
• Town hall ( Ayuntamento ) with its Mudejar ceiling

Jerez de la Frontera became famous throughout the world for its sweet wines named after the town, which the British pronounced "sherry". It is called "de la Frontera " because it once stood on the frontier between the Moorish and the Christian realms.

The distinctive wine in Jerez has been exported for centuries; it was even praised by Shakespeare. It is distinctive because the strong sun gives the grapes high sugar content. British merchants have been involved in the wine trade here for centuries, producing and shipping a fortified wine known as sherry. Famous names of these dynasties can be seen here over the doors of the bodegas; Sandeman, John Harvey, Domecq, Gonzalez Byass.

The Spanish word bodega means, "cellar", but it has the generically meaning of "wine manufacturer". You can take a guided tour of the many Jerez bodegas. Some of the companies such as Gonzalez Byass, Pedro Domecq and Sandeman provided guided tours of the cellars on weekdays, followed by sampling of the various types of wine produced. Jerez is also world famous for its magnificent dancing horses, which you can see at the Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Equestre - the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art, at Avenida de Abrantes (Tel: +34 956 311111). On Thursday mornings, there is a spectacular display of dressage.

Jerez celebrates its famous Horse Fair at the beginning of May each year.

Jerez is also famous for its long-standing flamenco tradition, making it an excellent place to witness this extraordinary art. The Centro Andaluz de Flamenco (Tel: 956 349265) is housed in the Palacio de Penmartín, which stands on the Plaza de San Juan, No. 1.